Life-A-Sketch

Is there a more personal life accessory than the lap top? In the mindset of personalization, it makes sense to embellish the tool that creates all of the fabulous designs that keep the world stimulating and fun. This is an extreme example (above) of what is possible in terms of tricking-out your Mac Book. If you are challenged for a direction, be mindful that there is an endless source of inspiration available(even to the artistically impaired) once you commit to your computer having its own daring look.

The i-generation has a very strong passion about making themselves identifiable in this age of mass merchandising and computer cloning. It is all about making your personal items compelling enough that your personality is incarnated within your possessions. As if an exotic car isn't alluring enough, try wrapping it with graphic etchings to give it a tattoo appeal.

Home Designers & Interior Decorators have had a recent rise in requests to add peculiar designs to the upholsteries of fine furnishings. This is a must for clients who want to cater to their more eccentric sides, without compromising the equity of their homes. Roberto Cavalli agrees that eye-grabbing design should be reflected in every form of our lives. He lends his unique brand of prints to Coca Cola Light bottles (below) for the fashion enthusiast who likes a beverage with style.

The New You.

Sometimes to most outrageous print is the one that simply defies all logic and reasoning and addresses the issue at hand, style.   Rachel Roy always delivers a sophisticated palette with intricate print stories that are of a language she can call her own.  The statement that is strategically engineered on the dress (above), creates a moment of rebellion and defiance in a manner that conforms with contemporary RTW standards.  This chic rendering of graffiti is a winner, so be prepared to see it all over the place for late summer transition deliveries in stores.

The Great Americana!

Only Michael Kors could take such campy & general motifs such as stripes, dots, & gingham to make such a fresh runway statement. It's like taking a walk on the waterfront in Cape Cod or having iced summer cocktails at the Kennedy compoundin Hiannisport. A large scale gingham(above) is a winner every Spring.

A bold rugby stripe (above) is a perfect compliment of casual elegance for the on the go look, and will boldly celebrate the winter thaw.

The ever present polka dot is perhaps the most vesatile print known to fashion because of its' ability to be everything for every designer looking to connect with the general consumer. Evening(above) is no exception, the large scale dot works nicely on a formal look in the warmer months.

Throughout the industry, it is often thought that the americana look is strictly for novelty lines and it only appeals to the mass-market aesthetic. MK submits looks (above & below) that are contrary to this belief and make for stunning sportwear combos that work for the entire season.

Digital Dip

This is not the time to break out those plaid shorts, or the faded and once vibrant red lifeguard shorts of last summer. This season's choices are just too funky and are inspired by pop imaging that reads hip and fresh for all ages.

Whether it be a Warhol-like collage of portraits, a gaffiti motif tagged by a supreme designer or just a fun kaleidescope of colors to give the edge, swim is about keeping your cool this season.

A Galliano Spring!!!!

While sitting in the audience at John Galliano waiting for the music to queue, one can't help but wonder just how shockingly creative the storyline will be once the lights go down. He has a history of putting on elaborate productions that are inspired by moments in history and infusing influences from this very minute and the future . This season was no exception as he toys with the idea of regal florals on the everyday woman. The mix includes countryside flowers as we would see them on an elegantly woven tapestry or fine linen and a digital array of colorful shapes arranged to look like a fine work of art rendered by Monet himself.

I want to give you a peek at what I'm working on for next season.  I will be bringing you video footage of all of my interactions on my journey following the print trends around the world. This is a brief look into the tents and my coverage of NY fashion week from a textile perspective focusing on the prints in each collection.  

"New But Old"... Is The New "Old But New"

The Kris Van Assche Collection Spring 2009, is like opening your grandfather's vintage cigar box and finding a fresh batch of gummi bears. A well designed vintage floral stripe (above) has given Spring foilage a growth spurt. Noticeably, a refreshing yet masculine take on the floral trend that is gaining momentum in the men's market.

The abstract watercolor board shorts (above) are a fun and sporty twist when paired with a well tailored jacket.The choices to pair the old with the new seem to click in a way that relates to the metropolitan"fashionisto" who wants to be appropriately hip and stylish.

Notable: The Runway presentation also had a "fannypack" (below) and a "tote"(bottom) stamped with this same print and it gave this show just the right amount of iconic zest that's missing in mens fashion. These are must haves for the "guy-on-the-go" whose day requires him to carry more than just keys and a wallet.

Mi Casa, Su Casa...Armani Casa!

Fine Fashionable fabrics over simple elegant forms and delivering glamour and beauty to refined luxury interiors is the Giorgio Armani creed for furniture. Metropolitan living is synonomous with sharp clean design and timeless patterns that endure the whimsicality of passing trends. The silhouette of the Turnadot Sofa from Armani Casa (above) offers sophistication and modern refinement in the most handsome and clever way possible. The sofa takes on a beautiful minamalist elegance when combined with a neutral palette and the simplicity of large scale geometric shapes. The print plays on the familiar without being as obvious and boring as a plaid, and brings a unifying theme to a classic decor.

Obama Alta Moda

The merchandising surrounding the newly elected President of the United States, Barack Obama has reached markets never before chartered by any political movement.  We all found the need to wear a T-shirt or maybe a button or two bearing the Commander-in-Chief's likeness to show how visibly supportive a constituency could be during his campaign.  The Italian house of Gattinoni proved that this high-powered political figure fosters intrinsic beauty that is beyond satire, and makes room for a fashionable statement that is forever relevant.  The solarized pop image used on this caftan has become synonymous with the promise of "hope and change", clearly the predominant trend of choice across the globe.

Girls Just Wanna Have Fun

Magnificent.  Intriguing.  Avant Garde. M.I.A. is not only one of the hottest artist to emerge from the Brooklyn music scene she is also setting the new standard for hip-hop chic.  She rocked an opulent ethnic print with a peacock colorway that gave her pregnant frame just the right silhouette to pull off such a risky combination.  Manish Arora (designer) is well known for his unconventional styling and creating garments that are of a distinctly couture nature.  

Polka Couture

Now whether you know it or not, polka dots are a print.  They have been around for longer than anyone can seem to remember and seem to find their way on to the boards of inspiration every season.  They are classified as a "geometic" in textiles but for some reason they seem to have the same endearing qualities of a floral print and the recognizable components of a conversational print. Dots are a major key item for Spring '09 in every facet of the market from nightgowns to ball gowns. In these looks from the Christian Lacriox Couture show, they take on a silhouette of sophistication and elegance because he creates a moment of motion by accenting with a smaller scale. 

Save The Garment Center!

This is not a new topic at all, but, it is one that that will forever be newsworthy to those it affects directly. There is no question in my mind that these two designers Anna Sui (above) and Nanette Lepore (below), will top my charts for "Top 10 Spring Shows,"  

as well as having printed looks in virtually every category. However, I feel as though the strongest statements made for the season are in the finale looks being worn by the designers themselves.  "Save The Garment Center" is a serious issue that is not only affecting showrooms around NYC, but all over the world.  Small design houses and private labels alike are struggling for business and having to close their garment district showrooms because of escalating rental rates.  The textile buildings are being taken over by luxury lofts, financial, legal, and other non fashion businesses that bring a new dynamic to a once predominately creative area.  Let's show some support to our neighbors by joining www.savethegarmentcenter.com and I expect to see lots of t-shirts in the tents this season.

My Fashion Valentine

Is it possible to maintain a sweet sensibility when merged with a slight hint of sex appeal? Marc Jacobs seems to have answered that question with a definite "yes" season after season. Below, the heralded designer has captured Sofi's innocense and still managed to incorporate a flirtatious innuendo that is lively and cheerful. You have to love the feeling of this look from the Resort '09 collection and the asymetrical scalloping that reinforces the heart shapes and makes a complete departure from the predictable use of eyelets and lace.

The New Skull

If you haven't bought at least one item that has a skull placement in the past few seasons then you are truly living in an underground world of anti-hip. I'm starting to notice that even the most chic of fashionistas and dudes alike are being spotted around town sporting an edge that isn't inspired by punk music, iconic rap bling, or "done to death" grunge. What's being heralded as the "Alternative Skull" is an array of tribal-like gargoyles that serve as a transfiguration for the new universal symbol of cool. Retailers realize the the i-generation isn't afraid of anything and want to express this daring confidence in their merchandising by rocking motifs that connote danger and an unquestionable sense of fearlessness.I'm constantly being asked by mass market clients to find "danger" inspired motifs that are mom & school friendly to keep up with this blanketed trend. Aside from the success of the Ed Hardy tattoo phenomenon, no brand is really ready to challenge the moods of the PTA and potentially jeopardize the image of their brand by yeilding to a "moment ose'." This Victor and Rolf T-shirt paired with the geometric tights makes the super cool Shalom (model, IMG) look super hip & fresh.

DVF: Spring 2009

When speaking of the design legend that is Diane Von Furstenberg, one would have to agree that it is a tale of a dynasty that has largely contributed to the shape of American fashion as we know it.   Her legacy is a myriad of iconic patterns and prints that have been inspiring the contemporary palettes of women from every walk of life for decades.  This season was perhaps one of her strongest ever in terms of developing abstract prints that are easily understood by the DVF woman.

Dots are always a safe bet when it comes to inserting a light hearted print to appease the buyer's requests for key items, but even here (above) we see DVF feathers the edges and adds an asymmetrical edge for a slightly more ethnic flavor, like that of an animal skin.
In both of these looks (above & below) oblong geometric shapes are fused together with moody yet complimentary colors to give the illusion of a floral softness.

Above, the hombre moment is interpreted nicely by achieving a swooping angle on the diagonal.  It is always characteristic of the DVF design squad to have a light-hearted look in the collection.  However, despite the fact that a tunic (below) is printed with the whimsical feel of  butterflies, the strategic border placements helps it adhere to the standard of sophistication that is always a part the overall initiative in her collections.  This show was fashioned after the likeness of a rock goddess with nostalgic hints of a "hippie" era past and is filled with looks and prints that will be adored for years to come.

Play A Classic Please

Just like a favorite Rock-N-Roll tune, John Varvatos cranks out recognizable ideas that appeal to the nostalgic persona and the rebellious type. Traditionally, etoile is story telling on fabric that connotes a classic reverence and marks definitive moments in textile history.  Above, an ordinary pair of trousers takes a dramatic turn down memory lane for a juxtaposed feeling of rebellion and Varvatos style.

Remaining true to the more regal qualities of this print, B. Michael(above) creates a more subdued interpretation by using it to give his classic tailoring an intricate sense of male elegance.  From opposite points of view, both designers were able to take an obviously archival print and play it on an updated silhouette to make it relevant to their respective customer bases.

A Look & A Jacket

Living in the era of "casual chic" it is imperative to find a balance of being comfortably appropriate and at the very least, dashing. It is very possible to pump a little personality into your Spring looks by adding some texture to the basic black jacket. Below, Comme de Garcon delivers a horizontal variable by printing the illusion of tie dye for a play on convention.

At Alexander McQueen, "extreme chic" is always the inspiration. The hombre feeling applied to the jacket below instills a sense of fearless style for the adventure seeker in all of us. This technique is nothing new, but, the vertical application is eye-catching and is among my favorite interpretations of this trend.

Goddess of Trends

Though there were no Greek tragedies in the theaters in 2oo8, the myth of Aphrodite will surely walk the red carpet at the Oscar's this year. Virtually every designer that boasts to interpret eveningwear opted to insert toga-like draping into the collection this season. Above, in a typical Missoni approach, a minimal geometric design gives this organic shape a deeper sense of character and a slighty tribal take on the initial concept.

First, I must comment on how exciting is it to see Halston(above) back in the swing of things and showing in the tents. The tie-dye effect is achieved via the new technology of digital printing and it is quite an impressive and authentic looking piece without looking computerized or overdone.

Yigal Azrouel (above), is perhaps more influenced by the more casual side of this look that is slowly coming into dominance on the streets of Paris. However, the silhouette is an homage to the Greco-Roman magnetism of this trend and the vertebrae print adds effortless flow to the gown.

Stephen Sprouse

The Stephen Sprouse Exhibition at Deitch in SoHo is by far the most stunning season opener to hit New York in a very long time. It truly puts Sprouse's fashion initiatives in the light of great artistic conceptions that were always larger than any boutique window display. He made use of mass produced commercial imaging to give prints a familiar sense of Pop reference that stimulated a visual art movement in textiles. The installation refers not so much to the art itself as it does to the attitude that inspired it. You can definitely expect to see a surge of this very unique style resurge in home goods in the very near future to cater to the "i"-generation.

Bold & British

London is an epicenter of panache and distinctive style and it is easily recognized as British, even though it is sometimes referred to as stuffy and staid.  A new wave of designers are giving the U.K. a prominent position in the realm of fashion innovation in a bold and forward approach.  Nathan Jenden and Duro Oluwu are leading the pack by fusing intricate patterns together with vibrant and flamboyant color combinations.  Honorable mention goes to the genius of Basso & Brooke  and the groovy looks produced by the team at Fashion Fringe for implementing a use of color that puts Britain firmly on the map of stylish prints.

Change of Direction

A simple stripe takes on a life of motion and a new orientation of proclivity when Eley Kishimoto fragments the bold bands of color and tosses them around.  This is a fun and flirty look for all ages in a patriotic geometric. 
Here DKNY challenges the eye to make sense out of the familiar by wedging linear anarchy between the visual texture of calibrated ikats.  The pieces are quirky and speak loudly as an collective statement, and I think we can all appreciate the need to take a creative vacation from the norm.

Changing the scale of a simple print in the breadth of a repeat(elements of a design duplicated to create a uniform pattern) can formulate an engineered look of contrived harmony by simply shifting the negative space in a purposeful manner.  Dries Van Noten is an eminent soveriegn of print innovation and this look is just another masterpiece for the archives.