Asian Persuasion

Prints that are of an Asian derivation seem to always connote a regal and ornate feeling regardless of what they are printed on. The most common of which are the floral motifs screened on fine silks in bright tones and pefectly composed repeats.
Vivenne Tam takes this classic motif and applies a brushstroke (Above) to give it a more random feeling and a freehand style for the liberated and rebellious look of the season.

This technique is not new to the runway but her choice of color and scale makes this century-old idea new & appealing all over again. (Above) It is applied to a floor-length look that can easily be worn as an evening gown or with sandals for a pache resort look for the day.

Embroidery is far too often overlooked as an art form that pays homge to texture and pattern in a three demesional format. She applies it to the bottom of a dress (Above) to give it a feeling of luxe seperates.

Inside Out

Above, Alexander Mcqueen, as he does season after season, never disappoints when it comes to being devicefully manipulative of the female silhouette. He took Paris by storm this season by taking the very hip skeletal trend and created a look of machine-like precision that relates beautifully to the human form. The translation takes on an architectural mood that is stunning as it is clever and ingenius. Below, an equally amazing display of this upcoming trend, is the walking lifesize X-ray from Narcisco Rodriguez's collection that seems to expose the subtle power of femininity as it would be seen from the inside of today's most influential women of fashion. These almost radioactive looks were by far the most prolific diplays of positive and negative print engineering to hit the runways in quite some time. Now this is the science of textiles at its best!

A Cut Above

Stella McCartney: The best patterns this season are turning out to be the subject matter of the look and not the garment itself. This cut-out trend is being rocked by all the fashionistas around the globe in several silhouettes and forms as a way of creating an "au natural" texture. The organic driven fabric selections of select fashion houses substantiating the "Green" movement are sure to be re-interpreted for years to come.

A Gun for Every Woman to Tote

I speak to about 100 designers a week on average & it is the general consensus in the market place, that the idea of a gun is too violent of an image to be used as a conversational element. Here, on a NY consumer, it is garnered in a fun playful manner that is not offensive or threatining in any manner. In fact, it injects some humor into a topic that we take all too seriously in terms of imaging.

After an entire year of the world being skull crazed and being enthrawled by the macabre, what's the next jeopardous look? I think we found it!

Brush Strokes

How can something so simplistic be so coveted? The process of printing on fabric is an exact science & such compositions are almost impossible to render in textiles. A screen has to be created for every color & the pattern has to repeat in a manner that allows every garment to be identical. While we're still waiting for digital printing to ease in to mass production the wholesale value of such items is always going to be in the high stratosphere.

Chloe's paint splatters are an example of this house's sophisticated style techniques and how no expense is spared to garner the mood of the season. I think this will be the most duplicated look in the mass market by far.

Art+Photography+Design=FASHION

New, fresh, and lovely....When you consider the collaborative genius that went in to this particular line, there is no wonder why this was the most talked about show of the season. Marc Jacobs, Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince were the forces that shaped this collection's attitude and appeal. I love how the usage of sequins emulates an ikat right off the Athena's loom and creates a bohemian effect that is all-around chic & stylish.

Channeling Versace

A look ahead to Versace Fall 2008 is an inspirational push provided by dutch artist Tim Roeloffs. A photoreal monatage of Versace-esque textiles and references printed on a colorful backdrop evokes a strong mental image that is functional & flirty. The bonus is that this pattern is impeccably engineered to provide an intersting visual that is modern & sophisticated. This print is an homage to the great style and expert tailoring of Gianni Versace and can be re-worked to achieve several silhouettes for seasons to come.

The New Order

1. Peter Piletto introduces a print that is loaded with texture interpret the abstract & ikat trend that has dominated the runways this season.
2. Talbot Runhof utilizes a flirty floral to make an ultra feminine statement. I love how the floral motif creates a scenic of blooms that is not so typical and gives the garment's character some life.

I am a full blooded, pure-bred Fashionisto and have to respect the legendary houses that have laid the foundation for the future of fashion prints, but, there is something very intriguing about the collections that are rising in the ranks. This season was saturated with print masterpieces across the board that addressed form, color, mood and history. However, I was most impressed with the new-comers who utilized patterns to show that their collections have the depth necessary to attract the eye of today's discerning consumer. BRAVO!

No Lines On My Stripes Please,...

A print is intended to evoke an emotion and then to pinpoint a collection's focus or drive a Brand's direction. By implanting a definitive element to create the effects of contrast and texture, this same strategy is adopted for the placement of a stripe and a plaid. Simple geometry it is not, because it is every designer's challenge at one point or another to get their creative juices jammed with linear formatting.

This pattern is fashioned and referenced by vintage Ikats designed to explore surreal impressions of a stripe by Coloured Zebra Print Studio Paris, France. It will be a refreshing way to approach the abstract & tribal trends that will dominate the editorial features for the transitional mid-season deliveries.

Let's define this to be a forward look that allows some freedom to flow within the theorems of engineering skirt borders. Besides the obvious Missoni House of Milan, I know there will be some prominent peices rendered by adopting this look to interpret the retro mood for Spring 2009. RTW Separates, Accessories, & Home will be key markets guiding the trend.