"New But Old"... Is The New "Old But New"

The Kris Van Assche Collection Spring 2009, is like opening your grandfather's vintage cigar box and finding a fresh batch of gummi bears. A well designed vintage floral stripe (above) has given Spring foilage a growth spurt. Noticeably, a refreshing yet masculine take on the floral trend that is gaining momentum in the men's market.

The abstract watercolor board shorts (above) are a fun and sporty twist when paired with a well tailored jacket.The choices to pair the old with the new seem to click in a way that relates to the metropolitan"fashionisto" who wants to be appropriately hip and stylish.

Notable: The Runway presentation also had a "fannypack" (below) and a "tote"(bottom) stamped with this same print and it gave this show just the right amount of iconic zest that's missing in mens fashion. These are must haves for the "guy-on-the-go" whose day requires him to carry more than just keys and a wallet.

Mi Casa, Su Casa...Armani Casa!

Fine Fashionable fabrics over simple elegant forms and delivering glamour and beauty to refined luxury interiors is the Giorgio Armani creed for furniture. Metropolitan living is synonomous with sharp clean design and timeless patterns that endure the whimsicality of passing trends. The silhouette of the Turnadot Sofa from Armani Casa (above) offers sophistication and modern refinement in the most handsome and clever way possible. The sofa takes on a beautiful minamalist elegance when combined with a neutral palette and the simplicity of large scale geometric shapes. The print plays on the familiar without being as obvious and boring as a plaid, and brings a unifying theme to a classic decor.

Obama Alta Moda

The merchandising surrounding the newly elected President of the United States, Barack Obama has reached markets never before chartered by any political movement.  We all found the need to wear a T-shirt or maybe a button or two bearing the Commander-in-Chief's likeness to show how visibly supportive a constituency could be during his campaign.  The Italian house of Gattinoni proved that this high-powered political figure fosters intrinsic beauty that is beyond satire, and makes room for a fashionable statement that is forever relevant.  The solarized pop image used on this caftan has become synonymous with the promise of "hope and change", clearly the predominant trend of choice across the globe.

Girls Just Wanna Have Fun

Magnificent.  Intriguing.  Avant Garde. M.I.A. is not only one of the hottest artist to emerge from the Brooklyn music scene she is also setting the new standard for hip-hop chic.  She rocked an opulent ethnic print with a peacock colorway that gave her pregnant frame just the right silhouette to pull off such a risky combination.  Manish Arora (designer) is well known for his unconventional styling and creating garments that are of a distinctly couture nature.  

Polka Couture

Now whether you know it or not, polka dots are a print.  They have been around for longer than anyone can seem to remember and seem to find their way on to the boards of inspiration every season.  They are classified as a "geometic" in textiles but for some reason they seem to have the same endearing qualities of a floral print and the recognizable components of a conversational print. Dots are a major key item for Spring '09 in every facet of the market from nightgowns to ball gowns. In these looks from the Christian Lacriox Couture show, they take on a silhouette of sophistication and elegance because he creates a moment of motion by accenting with a smaller scale. 

Save The Garment Center!

This is not a new topic at all, but, it is one that that will forever be newsworthy to those it affects directly. There is no question in my mind that these two designers Anna Sui (above) and Nanette Lepore (below), will top my charts for "Top 10 Spring Shows,"  

as well as having printed looks in virtually every category. However, I feel as though the strongest statements made for the season are in the finale looks being worn by the designers themselves.  "Save The Garment Center" is a serious issue that is not only affecting showrooms around NYC, but all over the world.  Small design houses and private labels alike are struggling for business and having to close their garment district showrooms because of escalating rental rates.  The textile buildings are being taken over by luxury lofts, financial, legal, and other non fashion businesses that bring a new dynamic to a once predominately creative area.  Let's show some support to our neighbors by joining www.savethegarmentcenter.com and I expect to see lots of t-shirts in the tents this season.

My Fashion Valentine

Is it possible to maintain a sweet sensibility when merged with a slight hint of sex appeal? Marc Jacobs seems to have answered that question with a definite "yes" season after season. Below, the heralded designer has captured Sofi's innocense and still managed to incorporate a flirtatious innuendo that is lively and cheerful. You have to love the feeling of this look from the Resort '09 collection and the asymetrical scalloping that reinforces the heart shapes and makes a complete departure from the predictable use of eyelets and lace.

The New Skull

If you haven't bought at least one item that has a skull placement in the past few seasons then you are truly living in an underground world of anti-hip. I'm starting to notice that even the most chic of fashionistas and dudes alike are being spotted around town sporting an edge that isn't inspired by punk music, iconic rap bling, or "done to death" grunge. What's being heralded as the "Alternative Skull" is an array of tribal-like gargoyles that serve as a transfiguration for the new universal symbol of cool. Retailers realize the the i-generation isn't afraid of anything and want to express this daring confidence in their merchandising by rocking motifs that connote danger and an unquestionable sense of fearlessness.I'm constantly being asked by mass market clients to find "danger" inspired motifs that are mom & school friendly to keep up with this blanketed trend. Aside from the success of the Ed Hardy tattoo phenomenon, no brand is really ready to challenge the moods of the PTA and potentially jeopardize the image of their brand by yeilding to a "moment ose'." This Victor and Rolf T-shirt paired with the geometric tights makes the super cool Shalom (model, IMG) look super hip & fresh.

DVF: Spring 2009

When speaking of the design legend that is Diane Von Furstenberg, one would have to agree that it is a tale of a dynasty that has largely contributed to the shape of American fashion as we know it.   Her legacy is a myriad of iconic patterns and prints that have been inspiring the contemporary palettes of women from every walk of life for decades.  This season was perhaps one of her strongest ever in terms of developing abstract prints that are easily understood by the DVF woman.

Dots are always a safe bet when it comes to inserting a light hearted print to appease the buyer's requests for key items, but even here (above) we see DVF feathers the edges and adds an asymmetrical edge for a slightly more ethnic flavor, like that of an animal skin.
In both of these looks (above & below) oblong geometric shapes are fused together with moody yet complimentary colors to give the illusion of a floral softness.

Above, the hombre moment is interpreted nicely by achieving a swooping angle on the diagonal.  It is always characteristic of the DVF design squad to have a light-hearted look in the collection.  However, despite the fact that a tunic (below) is printed with the whimsical feel of  butterflies, the strategic border placements helps it adhere to the standard of sophistication that is always a part the overall initiative in her collections.  This show was fashioned after the likeness of a rock goddess with nostalgic hints of a "hippie" era past and is filled with looks and prints that will be adored for years to come.

Play A Classic Please

Just like a favorite Rock-N-Roll tune, John Varvatos cranks out recognizable ideas that appeal to the nostalgic persona and the rebellious type. Traditionally, etoile is story telling on fabric that connotes a classic reverence and marks definitive moments in textile history.  Above, an ordinary pair of trousers takes a dramatic turn down memory lane for a juxtaposed feeling of rebellion and Varvatos style.

Remaining true to the more regal qualities of this print, B. Michael(above) creates a more subdued interpretation by using it to give his classic tailoring an intricate sense of male elegance.  From opposite points of view, both designers were able to take an obviously archival print and play it on an updated silhouette to make it relevant to their respective customer bases.

A Look & A Jacket

Living in the era of "casual chic" it is imperative to find a balance of being comfortably appropriate and at the very least, dashing. It is very possible to pump a little personality into your Spring looks by adding some texture to the basic black jacket. Below, Comme de Garcon delivers a horizontal variable by printing the illusion of tie dye for a play on convention.

At Alexander McQueen, "extreme chic" is always the inspiration. The hombre feeling applied to the jacket below instills a sense of fearless style for the adventure seeker in all of us. This technique is nothing new, but, the vertical application is eye-catching and is among my favorite interpretations of this trend.

Goddess of Trends

Though there were no Greek tragedies in the theaters in 2oo8, the myth of Aphrodite will surely walk the red carpet at the Oscar's this year. Virtually every designer that boasts to interpret eveningwear opted to insert toga-like draping into the collection this season. Above, in a typical Missoni approach, a minimal geometric design gives this organic shape a deeper sense of character and a slighty tribal take on the initial concept.

First, I must comment on how exciting is it to see Halston(above) back in the swing of things and showing in the tents. The tie-dye effect is achieved via the new technology of digital printing and it is quite an impressive and authentic looking piece without looking computerized or overdone.

Yigal Azrouel (above), is perhaps more influenced by the more casual side of this look that is slowly coming into dominance on the streets of Paris. However, the silhouette is an homage to the Greco-Roman magnetism of this trend and the vertebrae print adds effortless flow to the gown.

Stephen Sprouse

The Stephen Sprouse Exhibition at Deitch in SoHo is by far the most stunning season opener to hit New York in a very long time. It truly puts Sprouse's fashion initiatives in the light of great artistic conceptions that were always larger than any boutique window display. He made use of mass produced commercial imaging to give prints a familiar sense of Pop reference that stimulated a visual art movement in textiles. The installation refers not so much to the art itself as it does to the attitude that inspired it. You can definitely expect to see a surge of this very unique style resurge in home goods in the very near future to cater to the "i"-generation.

Bold & British

London is an epicenter of panache and distinctive style and it is easily recognized as British, even though it is sometimes referred to as stuffy and staid.  A new wave of designers are giving the U.K. a prominent position in the realm of fashion innovation in a bold and forward approach.  Nathan Jenden and Duro Oluwu are leading the pack by fusing intricate patterns together with vibrant and flamboyant color combinations.  Honorable mention goes to the genius of Basso & Brooke  and the groovy looks produced by the team at Fashion Fringe for implementing a use of color that puts Britain firmly on the map of stylish prints.

Change of Direction

A simple stripe takes on a life of motion and a new orientation of proclivity when Eley Kishimoto fragments the bold bands of color and tosses them around.  This is a fun and flirty look for all ages in a patriotic geometric. 
Here DKNY challenges the eye to make sense out of the familiar by wedging linear anarchy between the visual texture of calibrated ikats.  The pieces are quirky and speak loudly as an collective statement, and I think we can all appreciate the need to take a creative vacation from the norm.

Changing the scale of a simple print in the breadth of a repeat(elements of a design duplicated to create a uniform pattern) can formulate an engineered look of contrived harmony by simply shifting the negative space in a purposeful manner.  Dries Van Noten is an eminent soveriegn of print innovation and this look is just another masterpiece for the archives.

Face of Fashion

I polled the show-hoppers from Paris Fashion Week this season and there was no contest in declaring Sonia Rykiel as the hands down favorite for "Best Show." In a "grande hommage" to celebrate her 40th Anniversary, several major designers submitted looks using the history of the house as an inspiration. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac actually used Sonia's image and trademark hairstyle, the quintessential cornerstones of the brand, as a sculptural tribute to create one of the many showstopping looks that literally flooded the runway with exuberance. Though a bit dramatic in concept, the garment gathers the kind of iconic attention that has surrounded the house for the past 4 decades. The Prince Prints Report says congratulations & Happy 40th Anniversary to Sonia and Thank you for being an inspiration to us all.

Make It Pop.

Sometimes.... it looks a little adventurous or maybe even a tad bit retro when prints are incorporated into the today's male wardrobe. It is, however, becoming more prevelant for men to show just how masterfully they have harnessed the ability to stylishly accessorize a look to garner fashion points on the style meter. 3.1 Phillip Lim is perhaps the season's runway favorite daredevil to defy convention. The house constantly reinvents the laws of design by overlooking the principles of proportion and creating contemporary formulas that are up-to-the-minute decrees of trend for the new-fashioned man. On this already great suit, we see just how powerful the hint of a pattern tranforms an ordinary look into a quiet statement that calmly whispers, "I have style!" This brand of expression and stylish tailoring is already taking a global and definitive stand and will hopefully govern mens design for years to come.

Inside Out

Above, Alexander Mcqueen, as he does season after season, never disappoints when it comes to being devicefully manipulative of the female silhouette. He took Paris by storm this season by taking the very hip skeletal trend and created a look of machine-like precision that relates beautifully to the human form. The translation takes on an architectural mood that is stunning as it is clever and ingenius. Below, an equally amazing display of this upcoming trend, is the walking lifesize X-ray from Narcisco Rodriguez's collection that seems to expose the subtle power of femininity as it would be seen from the inside of today's most influential women of fashion. These almost radioactive looks were by far the most prolific diplays of positive and negative print engineering to hit the runways in quite some time. Now this is the science of textiles at its best!

Reflections

The Spring 2009 Collection at Vuitton was a departure from the usual stoic French sensiblity of the house and methodically addressed the mass' interest in this luxury brand. The normal approach to achieiving this type of textured luster is to engineer a lurex woven and hope that the garment is always worn in optimal light for the desired luminous effect. Here, Marc Jacobs (Creative Director) prints right on the lame to create the right amount of radiance and sparkle for the fashionista looking for pieces that easily transition from day to night. The fabric is a genius display of technology and looks as though it is made from priceless vintaged coins as they would be worn by mythological dieties, or better yet, a fashion goddess. This is proof positive that gloss will be the new bling beautiful in the season to come.

A Cut Above

Stella McCartney: The best patterns this season are turning out to be the subject matter of the look and not the garment itself. This cut-out trend is being rocked by all the fashionistas around the globe in several silhouettes and forms as a way of creating an "au natural" texture. The organic driven fabric selections of select fashion houses substantiating the "Green" movement are sure to be re-interpreted for years to come.

BOHEMIAN ELEGANCE: STUNNING! The bold attitude and alluring angles dance around the neck and explode into Fall 2008. This cocktail is the toast of the season by starting a warm cozy fire in the front row.

Humanity Through Fashion!*Please donate to funds assisting families across America being displaced by disasters in their communities.

WE ARE A NATION.......Rebuild America!-rahdney reports 07/15/08

The Great Cover-Up

Every Spring we are challenged to find the great cover-ups, even though we already have one. Rocking a printed top layer is a mood elevator of the highest order this season if you are looking dress up the drab. These particular zebra inspired prints are styled to change the direction of flow and add to the bold impression in an ever so chic way....VERY Dior!-rp

"Posen" for a Portrait

ZAC Posen has gone print crazy in his Resort '09 collection!!!! I know I pushed right past Spring & Fall on this one, but I had to bring it to everyone's attention because the collection is loaded with looks. I love the effort to provide his customers with a softer demension to his famous frilly silhouettes. Nice to see an American designer decide to follow the lead of his European couterparts because American women are wanting more contemporary choices.

How badly do you want to stand out in the crowd? It is important this season to make a personal statement by finding prints that truely express the essence of your personality. Anna Sui is no stranger to making the beautifully bold looks that command attention work by using a subdued color palette and black accents. Her typical rock-n-roll inspiration makes for mandatory additions to your closet to spice things up this Spring '08.-rp

Romance Is Not Dead, It's Fashionable.

I'm finding it very difficult to focus on Spring when the Fall preview is saturated with so many sultry and romantic references. The cascading floral embellishment is a dramatic yet necessary element in achieving this look of ages. No longer are the days of a "missy" cabbage rose isolated to flannel bathrobes draped over gandma's rocking chair. This going to be the cocktail stunner of the season because it is loaded with the things that make for a jaw-dropping entrance, not to mention Giambattista Valli's excellent use of texture & color.